DIY or OMG?
We spend a lot of time (and people spend a lot of money) fixing subpar remodeling work. You might be willing to do just about any home improvement project around your house... but before you tackle any major work, consider two things.
First, ask yourself if you can do the job right. Saving money is one thing, but are you knowledgeable enough about the task at hand to avoid major (and costly) mistakes?
Second—and perhaps more importantly—put yourself in the shoes of a potential buyer - even if you're not likely to sell for years. You might be proud of all your home improvements, but that won't stop the homebuyer from asking questions about the work. Fair or not, there is an inherent skepticism about homegrown handymen, no matter your talents.
Professionally done work, on the other hand, tends to have a certain "seal of approval" that assures the job was done properly. Plus, most pros guarantee their work for an extended time, which gives buyers even more confidence.
Just some food for thought!
Wednesday, October 31, 2012
Friday, September 7, 2012
Home Safety Tips for Seniors
*You should consider having a professional install/perform these Long Term Considerations.
1. Set the hot-water heater to 120 degrees Fahrenheit to reduce energy costs and prevent scalding.
2. Mark cold and hot faucets clearly.
3. Leave a light on in your bathroom at night.
4. Use a rubber-suction bath mat or anti-slip floor strips or decals in the tub or shower.
5. Increase contrast: Avoid low contrasting items. Adding contrast is as simple as a blue tub mat in a white bathtub or painting the edge of the steps a contrasting color from the rest of the step surface.
6. Install a handheld adjustable showerhead for easier bathing.
7. Install user-friendly lever handle faucets in your sinks and in tubs or showers. Some faucets even
8. Skid-proof the tub and make sure the bath mat has a non-slip bottom.
Long Term Considerations*
1. Install a raised height toilet or sink/vanity.
2. Place a sturdy bathtub or shower seat in the tub and/or shower.
3. Mount grab bars next to the toilet and bathtub and in the shower for help getting up or down.
1. Keep floors clean and uncluttered.
2. Illuminate work areas.
3. Mark "on" and "off" positions on appliances clearly and with bright colors.
4. Store heavier objects at waist level.
5. Place or mount an A-B-C rated, all-purpose fire extinguisher in an easily accessible location near the stove and oven so that you’re prepared for any type of kitchen fire.
6. Store sharp knives in a rack.
Long Term Considerations*
1. Replace knobs on cabinets and drawers with easy-to-grip, D-shaped handles.
2. Install offset hinges on all doors to add two inches of width for wheelchair access, if needed.
3. Install a security peephole on exterior doors at the correct height for you.
4. Install outdoor floodlights that switch on by motion sensors to light your way and to deter burglars.
1. Open blinds and curtains and raise shades during daylight hours to increase natural light inside the home.
2. Place exposed electrical, telephone and computer cords along a wall where people won’t trip over them.
3. Remove all cords from under furniture or carpeting to lessen the risk of fire.
4. Remove clutter from stairways and passageways to help prevent trips and falls.
5. Check the carpeting on your stairs to be sure it is firmly attached.
6. Arrange furniture to allow for easy passage.
7. Create an emergency exit plan in case of a fire.
8. Remove debris from outdoor walkways.
9. Trim shrubbery to provide a clear view from doors and windows.
10. Increase light and decrease glare by using the highest-watt light bulbs or compact-fluorescent bulbs appropriate for your light fixtures or lamps. Use only non-glare incandescent bulbs (or the fluorescent equivalents).
11. Put nightlights in the bathroom and in hallways leading from the bedroom to the bathroom.
12. Keep a smoke detector on every floor and in each bedroom.
13. Make sure that all staircases have good lighting with switches at top and bottom.
14. Replace traditional light switches with easy-to-use, rocker-style light switches.
15. Install smoke and carbon-monoxide detectors on all levels of the house, especially where the bedrooms are.
Long Term Considerations*
1. Install railings on stairs, including basement stairs, and consider railings on both sides of the steps for an extra stability option.
2. Have a professional home evaluation to match your individual needs and habits.
3. Install a shelf at the main entrance door to hold items when locking and unlocking the door and install bigger, lever handles.
- Bathroom
1. Set the hot-water heater to 120 degrees Fahrenheit to reduce energy costs and prevent scalding.
2. Mark cold and hot faucets clearly.
3. Leave a light on in your bathroom at night.
4. Use a rubber-suction bath mat or anti-slip floor strips or decals in the tub or shower.
5. Increase contrast: Avoid low contrasting items. Adding contrast is as simple as a blue tub mat in a white bathtub or painting the edge of the steps a contrasting color from the rest of the step surface.
6. Install a handheld adjustable showerhead for easier bathing.
7. Install user-friendly lever handle faucets in your sinks and in tubs or showers. Some faucets even
8. Skid-proof the tub and make sure the bath mat has a non-slip bottom.
Long Term Considerations*
1. Install a raised height toilet or sink/vanity.
2. Place a sturdy bathtub or shower seat in the tub and/or shower.
3. Mount grab bars next to the toilet and bathtub and in the shower for help getting up or down.
- Kitchen
1. Keep floors clean and uncluttered.
2. Illuminate work areas.
3. Mark "on" and "off" positions on appliances clearly and with bright colors.
4. Store heavier objects at waist level.
5. Place or mount an A-B-C rated, all-purpose fire extinguisher in an easily accessible location near the stove and oven so that you’re prepared for any type of kitchen fire.
6. Store sharp knives in a rack.
Long Term Considerations*
1. Replace knobs on cabinets and drawers with easy-to-grip, D-shaped handles.
2. Install offset hinges on all doors to add two inches of width for wheelchair access, if needed.
3. Install a security peephole on exterior doors at the correct height for you.
4. Install outdoor floodlights that switch on by motion sensors to light your way and to deter burglars.
General
1. Open blinds and curtains and raise shades during daylight hours to increase natural light inside the home.
2. Place exposed electrical, telephone and computer cords along a wall where people won’t trip over them.
3. Remove all cords from under furniture or carpeting to lessen the risk of fire.
4. Remove clutter from stairways and passageways to help prevent trips and falls.
5. Check the carpeting on your stairs to be sure it is firmly attached.
6. Arrange furniture to allow for easy passage.
7. Create an emergency exit plan in case of a fire.
8. Remove debris from outdoor walkways.
9. Trim shrubbery to provide a clear view from doors and windows.
10. Increase light and decrease glare by using the highest-watt light bulbs or compact-fluorescent bulbs appropriate for your light fixtures or lamps. Use only non-glare incandescent bulbs (or the fluorescent equivalents).
11. Put nightlights in the bathroom and in hallways leading from the bedroom to the bathroom.
12. Keep a smoke detector on every floor and in each bedroom.
13. Make sure that all staircases have good lighting with switches at top and bottom.
14. Replace traditional light switches with easy-to-use, rocker-style light switches.
15. Install smoke and carbon-monoxide detectors on all levels of the house, especially where the bedrooms are.
Long Term Considerations*
1. Install railings on stairs, including basement stairs, and consider railings on both sides of the steps for an extra stability option.
2. Have a professional home evaluation to match your individual needs and habits.
3. Install a shelf at the main entrance door to hold items when locking and unlocking the door and install bigger, lever handles.
Wednesday, August 22, 2012
Apples to Apples? How to Compare Remodeling Proposals
- Most Importantly… Do You Trust This Person?
- Important Considerations:
• No two Remodelers are the same.
• Every project is custom.
• You must thoroughly review each proposal to get an understanding of what each contractor is presenting a bid for.
• Your prospective Remodeler’s should be consulting with you to create your project, not selling you on what they think should be done.
- 8 Questions to Ask:
2. Do they offer Full Health Insurance to their employees?
3. Do they have Liability Insurance?
4. Are they Lead Paint Certified (2)?
5. How much will Change Orders cost / change the original quote?
6. Do they guarantee their proposal price? Or is it just an 'estimate'?
7. Are they experienced in home remodeling or new home building (there is a HUGE difference)?
8. Have there been any complaints to the BBB (3) about them?
- Does the contractor, price and contract include?
• Realistic Allowances for your fixtures, cabinets, flooring, etc?
• All required legal documents – 3 days to cancel clause, Arbitration clause, etc
• Do they require no more than 1/3 down payment (excluding special order items), as required by PA law?
• Is there a clear listing of all of the specific details involved, including design, permits, electrical, plumbing, HVAC, inspections?
• A workmanship warranty?
- VALUE is KEY.
There are two ways a contractor can earn your business. He can try to be the lowest price or the best value. (4)
The lowest price typically comes with a large amount of risk. A low price typically means the following: no experience, low overhead (lack of capital, needs large down payment), no workers compensation insurance, no general liability insurance, no business license, and no contractor’s registration. The more items on the above list that applies, the greater the risk to the homeowner.
The best value is typically achieved when the customer knows exactly what they are going to receive (detailed specifications) from a company that has a solid reputation built on years of experience with the type of project you are having done. They will supply a large reference list of previous customers in your area, require no more than 1/3 down payment (PA State Law, excluding special order items), provide proof of insurance with a contact and phone number, proof of business license, and a state contractor’s registration and EPA lead paint certification. They will also offer a Warranty on their workmanship.
Resources:
(1) PA Attorney General Contractor Registration Search
(2) EPA RRP (Lead Paint) Certified Firm Search
(3) Better Business Bureau (BBB)
(4) Remodeling Magazine 2011-12 Harrisburg, PA Cost vs. Value Report
Tuesday, August 7, 2012
Home Contractor Horror Stories (and how you can avoid them)
Sometimes real life is scarier than the movies... like when you are looking for a Home Remodel Contractor in Lancaster, PA, but have no idea who to call. All we hear are stories, like the ones below, about contractors ripping people off and walking off with sometimes 6 figures of hard earned money. Some reports say upwards of $2 Billion a year is taking from people in Contractor Fraud. And that doesn't include the ones that perform shoddy work that needs to be redone by a professional remodeler within a few months... or the value of the home will significantly drop.
Our tips: Do your research! Ask for references and registration info and check for ratings online. Throw price aside, you get what you pay for - select the remodeler who you feel comfortable working with. They will be in your home day after day.
Videos:
NC Home Contractor Accused of Fraud:
Home Improvement Scams: Unlicensed Contractors:
This woman was ripped off so bad, she started her own bootcamp to help people avoid a similar nightmare: http://www.contractorsfromhell.com/home-premodeling-boot-camp-for-women-and-the-men-who-love-them/
Articles:
Excerpt from "A Contractor Horror Story? Join the Crowd" from NYTimes.com.
ALL she wanted was a nice fence around her backyard. Danielle O’Connell was planning a 2-year-old birthday party for her daughter at the family’s Elmsford home and wanted the 18 toddlers safely fenced in.
Mrs. O’Connell and her husband got several estimates but were discouraged by the cost and how long it would take to finish. All the contractors who bid told them the fence would cost at least $5,000 and take four to six weeks to put up.
Then the O’Connells got lucky — at least they thought they did. The couple found a contractor in the Yellow Pages who promised to build the fence for $2,000 and to do it in a week. “We were like, ‘Thank God we found this guy,’ ” Mrs. O’Connell said. “We’re thinking, ‘This is fantastic — those other people were going to rip us off.’ ”
There was a rip-off involved, of course, but it was by the low bidder, not the other contractors. After pressuring Mrs. O’Connell to give him a $1,000 deposit for construction material quickly, he disappeared. He never showed up to build the fence, nor did he answer the phone calls Mrs. O’Connell made as the weeks dragged on.
The O’Connells later found out that he is suspected of bilking at least 11 others out of their money, too.
Excerpt from "Learn from Other People's Contractor Horror Stories" from NewsChannel5.com.
Jason Brooks is another former customer of Carlton's.
Brooks paid him $50,000 to build an addition for his in-laws.
As he walks around the half-finished project, he points out different areas where there are problems. Much of Carlton did, Brooks tells NewsChannel 5 Investigates, failed inspection. And then, he says, Carlton vanished and wouldn't return calls.
"He's turned what was supposed to be a dream project into a complete nightmare," Brooks shares.
But perhaps what is most surprising is that Carlton knows what he's doing is wrong.
Our investigation found that he's been arrested repeatedly for working as a contractor without a professional license. We also found that he's ignored repeated orders by the state to stop working until he gets a license.
And, get this. He's even used someone else's license, claiming it was his.
Jason Brooks believes, "He doesn't care. That's the thing. He doesn't care about this. He doesn't respect the law."
Gene Spitzer adds, "We just thought cause he was a minister, he would be a decent human being."
Tips on choosing the RIGHT home remodeling contractor:
Tips from the BBB: Hiring a Contractor - Do you know the Red Flags?:
PA State Rep Joseph Preston, Jr: "Check for Home Contractor Registration":
When it's time for your Lancaster County, PA renovations - Trust MBC:
Our tips: Do your research! Ask for references and registration info and check for ratings online. Throw price aside, you get what you pay for - select the remodeler who you feel comfortable working with. They will be in your home day after day.
Videos:
NC Home Contractor Accused of Fraud:
Home Improvement Scams: Unlicensed Contractors:
This woman was ripped off so bad, she started her own bootcamp to help people avoid a similar nightmare: http://www.contractorsfromhell.com/home-premodeling-boot-camp-for-women-and-the-men-who-love-them/
Articles:
Excerpt from "A Contractor Horror Story? Join the Crowd" from NYTimes.com.
ALL she wanted was a nice fence around her backyard. Danielle O’Connell was planning a 2-year-old birthday party for her daughter at the family’s Elmsford home and wanted the 18 toddlers safely fenced in.
Mrs. O’Connell and her husband got several estimates but were discouraged by the cost and how long it would take to finish. All the contractors who bid told them the fence would cost at least $5,000 and take four to six weeks to put up.
Then the O’Connells got lucky — at least they thought they did. The couple found a contractor in the Yellow Pages who promised to build the fence for $2,000 and to do it in a week. “We were like, ‘Thank God we found this guy,’ ” Mrs. O’Connell said. “We’re thinking, ‘This is fantastic — those other people were going to rip us off.’ ”
There was a rip-off involved, of course, but it was by the low bidder, not the other contractors. After pressuring Mrs. O’Connell to give him a $1,000 deposit for construction material quickly, he disappeared. He never showed up to build the fence, nor did he answer the phone calls Mrs. O’Connell made as the weeks dragged on.
The O’Connells later found out that he is suspected of bilking at least 11 others out of their money, too.
Excerpt from "Learn from Other People's Contractor Horror Stories" from NewsChannel5.com.
Jason Brooks is another former customer of Carlton's.
Brooks paid him $50,000 to build an addition for his in-laws.
As he walks around the half-finished project, he points out different areas where there are problems. Much of Carlton did, Brooks tells NewsChannel 5 Investigates, failed inspection. And then, he says, Carlton vanished and wouldn't return calls.
"He's turned what was supposed to be a dream project into a complete nightmare," Brooks shares.
But perhaps what is most surprising is that Carlton knows what he's doing is wrong.
Our investigation found that he's been arrested repeatedly for working as a contractor without a professional license. We also found that he's ignored repeated orders by the state to stop working until he gets a license.
And, get this. He's even used someone else's license, claiming it was his.
Jason Brooks believes, "He doesn't care. That's the thing. He doesn't care about this. He doesn't respect the law."
Gene Spitzer adds, "We just thought cause he was a minister, he would be a decent human being."
Tips on choosing the RIGHT home remodeling contractor:
Tips from the BBB: Hiring a Contractor - Do you know the Red Flags?:
PA State Rep Joseph Preston, Jr: "Check for Home Contractor Registration":
When it's time for your Lancaster County, PA renovations - Trust MBC:
Thursday, July 5, 2012
Lancaster County, PA Home Addition Calculator
Most
of the Lancaster County, PA homeowners we talk to have no idea the cost
of building some sort of home addition, like a sunroom, family room,
master suite or garage. Now there are many different projects that fall
under the addition category, and they aren’t just all the same cost of
course. You should plan to invest anywhere from $20,000 to $200,000+
depending on the type of room addition project you and your family are
planning.
Now I’m sure you are saying, “That is a ridiculously big range... What about my sunroom?”… or mudroom, or garage, et al.
Answer? We created this Addition Investment Calculator for Lancaster County, PA to help you get a realistic idea of what you should plan on investing in your specific room addition project.
Major Investment Calculator Factors: To get a clearer idea of where your project may fall in the range below, you must consider a lot of different things. The following are just some of the factors that typically affect the cost of adding on to your home.
Size: The first major investment consideration is the square footage you envision on your project. No matter which project you are planning, bigger will always require a higher investment.
Exterior Finishes: The type of siding you choose plays an important role on the cost of your addition. Also, your door styles, roofing material, and any exterior lights you want will add to the bottom line.
Interior Finishes: Inside, there are a lot of ways to increase your position on the addition calculator below. What are we going to need? The type of flooring; total number and sizes of windows; trim work? If you are adding a kitchen, bathroom or other family area, you may need to choose cabinets, fixtures, countertops, tub material, paint and/or extra outlets.
Types of Additions:
Sunroom: $20,000 – 70,000+
Mudroom: $15,000 – 35,000+
Family Room: $50,000 – 70,000+
Bathroom Addition: $35,000 – 70,000+
Kitchen Addition: $35,000 - 100,000+
Garage w/ or w/o In Law Quarters upstairs: $50,000 – 140,000+
Additional garage building considerations: 1 story or 2? # of windows and entry doors? Number and style of garage doors? Finished drywall inside? In-laws quarters: bathroom and kitchen finish/appliance considerations?
Master Suite: $100,000 – 200,000+
2nd story: $150,000 – 200,000+
About this calculator:
• These estimated numbers are based on our long experience in the Lancaster County, PA remodeling field and Remodeling Magazine’s 2011-2012 Harrisburg, PA Cost vs. Value Report.
• All additions are structural buildings, meaning they require building permits, foundations must be dug and poured, Township inspections, etc.
These price ranges are very large, so contact us to get an exact quote on your Lancaster County, PA home addition! We can also help you with financing, design and floor plans.
Now I’m sure you are saying, “That is a ridiculously big range... What about my sunroom?”… or mudroom, or garage, et al.
Answer? We created this Addition Investment Calculator for Lancaster County, PA to help you get a realistic idea of what you should plan on investing in your specific room addition project.
Major Investment Calculator Factors: To get a clearer idea of where your project may fall in the range below, you must consider a lot of different things. The following are just some of the factors that typically affect the cost of adding on to your home.
Size: The first major investment consideration is the square footage you envision on your project. No matter which project you are planning, bigger will always require a higher investment.
Exterior Finishes: The type of siding you choose plays an important role on the cost of your addition. Also, your door styles, roofing material, and any exterior lights you want will add to the bottom line.
Interior Finishes: Inside, there are a lot of ways to increase your position on the addition calculator below. What are we going to need? The type of flooring; total number and sizes of windows; trim work? If you are adding a kitchen, bathroom or other family area, you may need to choose cabinets, fixtures, countertops, tub material, paint and/or extra outlets.
Types of Additions:
Sunroom: $20,000 – 70,000+
Mudroom: $15,000 – 35,000+
Family Room: $50,000 – 70,000+
Bathroom Addition: $35,000 – 70,000+
Kitchen Addition: $35,000 - 100,000+
Garage w/ or w/o In Law Quarters upstairs: $50,000 – 140,000+
Additional garage building considerations: 1 story or 2? # of windows and entry doors? Number and style of garage doors? Finished drywall inside? In-laws quarters: bathroom and kitchen finish/appliance considerations?
Master Suite: $100,000 – 200,000+
2nd story: $150,000 – 200,000+
About this calculator:
• These estimated numbers are based on our long experience in the Lancaster County, PA remodeling field and Remodeling Magazine’s 2011-2012 Harrisburg, PA Cost vs. Value Report.
• All additions are structural buildings, meaning they require building permits, foundations must be dug and poured, Township inspections, etc.
These price ranges are very large, so contact us to get an exact quote on your Lancaster County, PA home addition! We can also help you with financing, design and floor plans.
Thursday, May 31, 2012
Do you want a 4-season Sunroom or a 3-season Porch?
Sometimes while discussing a 4-season sunroom with our Lancaster County, PA clients, we get on the discussion of an alternative option: a 3-season room. Most of the time people were not aware of the term 3-season room or what it was, even though they usually have seen one after we explain it.
Here is a quick rundown of 4-season and 3-season rooms, their pros and cons and even an idea if you’re considering your own addition!
What is a 4-season room? A four-season room is a heated room addition. These are structures added to your home. The most common types are sunrooms and mudrooms. With a sunroom, you have large windows to let in the sun! A mudroom is usually a place of entry into the home, used for umbrellas, shoes and storage, or even a nice breakfast nook!
These usually allow the perfect place to relax with your family during the beautiful sunny days, but no matter what the weather outside is doing you can enjoy these rooms 365 days a year.
Pros:
• Air-conditioned and heated for year round enjoyment.
• Enjoy the natural light. Sunrooms with a lot of windows give you an “outdoor” feeling with out leaving the AC!
Cons:
• This is a structure like your home, meaning it needs a foundation dug and footers laid. This adds to the cost of building the new room.
Ideas:
• Cover your whole sunroom roof with windows for a complete outdoor experience!
What is a 3-season room? A 3-season room is a windowed room that is not heated, therefore it is (usually) unusable in the cold winter months. They are however perfect for those cool nights of Spring and Fall, as well as being outside on a hot Summer day without the sun beating down on you and your family. You can either enclose an existing deck or porch, or build a completely new one.
Tip: When adding or enclosing a porch, use four-track windows for the best performance of the room.
Pros:
• Less expensive.
• Can take as little as a few days to complete an enclosure of an existing porch.
Cons:
• This room is usually not in use during the Winter months.
Ideas:
• Consider Sunspace four-track vinyl windows. They are custom, durable and affordable, so replacing the screens on your existing porch is a breeze.
I hope that covers it! If you have any questions or are ready for a sunroom or enclosed porch in Lancaster County, PA, please contact Mike Blank, CGR CAPS and MBC Building & Remodeling, LLC in Millersville!
Here is a quick rundown of 4-season and 3-season rooms, their pros and cons and even an idea if you’re considering your own addition!
What is a 4-season room? A four-season room is a heated room addition. These are structures added to your home. The most common types are sunrooms and mudrooms. With a sunroom, you have large windows to let in the sun! A mudroom is usually a place of entry into the home, used for umbrellas, shoes and storage, or even a nice breakfast nook!
These usually allow the perfect place to relax with your family during the beautiful sunny days, but no matter what the weather outside is doing you can enjoy these rooms 365 days a year.
Pros:
• Air-conditioned and heated for year round enjoyment.
• Enjoy the natural light. Sunrooms with a lot of windows give you an “outdoor” feeling with out leaving the AC!
Cons:
• This is a structure like your home, meaning it needs a foundation dug and footers laid. This adds to the cost of building the new room.
Ideas:
• Cover your whole sunroom roof with windows for a complete outdoor experience!
What is a 3-season room? A 3-season room is a windowed room that is not heated, therefore it is (usually) unusable in the cold winter months. They are however perfect for those cool nights of Spring and Fall, as well as being outside on a hot Summer day without the sun beating down on you and your family. You can either enclose an existing deck or porch, or build a completely new one.
Tip: When adding or enclosing a porch, use four-track windows for the best performance of the room.
Pros:
• Less expensive.
• Can take as little as a few days to complete an enclosure of an existing porch.
Cons:
• This room is usually not in use during the Winter months.
Ideas:
• Consider Sunspace four-track vinyl windows. They are custom, durable and affordable, so replacing the screens on your existing porch is a breeze.
I hope that covers it! If you have any questions or are ready for a sunroom or enclosed porch in Lancaster County, PA, please contact Mike Blank, CGR CAPS and MBC Building & Remodeling, LLC in Millersville!
Monday, May 14, 2012
Not all Lancaster County, PA remodeling contractors are the same.
Not all Lancaster County, PA remodeling contractors are the same. We feel we are the best value in the area, and here is why.
MBC Building & Remodeling, LLC Customer Commitments:
1. You will NOT be sold. We are consulting with you on your family's project. We will discuss specific options and ideas with you, and not things that you don't need or want.
2. You will know EXACTLY what is included and will be performed in our proposal price, with no hidden fees or fluctuating estimates. This includes a payment plan, which will not require, as by PA law, more than 1/3 down payment.
3. You will know EXACTLY who will be here and what they will be doing. EVERYDAY.
4. We offer a 5-year Warranty (vs. the industry average of 1 year) so you know that no matter what may happen, we will ALWAYS be here to take care of it for you, promptly and professionally.
5. When we are on your project, we are here to work. No excessive breaks, no goofing around. From 7am to 3:30pm Monday through Friday we will be focused on creating your DREAM HOME.
6. Your family and your home will be treated as if it was our very own, with respect, care and courtesy.
When it's time for a new sunroom, a home addition, bathroom, kitchen, deck or basement renovation, give us a call!
Thank you!
Matt & Mike Blank
MBC Building & Remodeling, LLC
[717] 371.5136
MBC Building & Remodeling, LLC Customer Commitments:
1. You will NOT be sold. We are consulting with you on your family's project. We will discuss specific options and ideas with you, and not things that you don't need or want.
2. You will know EXACTLY what is included and will be performed in our proposal price, with no hidden fees or fluctuating estimates. This includes a payment plan, which will not require, as by PA law, more than 1/3 down payment.
3. You will know EXACTLY who will be here and what they will be doing. EVERYDAY.
4. We offer a 5-year Warranty (vs. the industry average of 1 year) so you know that no matter what may happen, we will ALWAYS be here to take care of it for you, promptly and professionally.
5. When we are on your project, we are here to work. No excessive breaks, no goofing around. From 7am to 3:30pm Monday through Friday we will be focused on creating your DREAM HOME.
6. Your family and your home will be treated as if it was our very own, with respect, care and courtesy.
When it's time for a new sunroom, a home addition, bathroom, kitchen, deck or basement renovation, give us a call!
Thank you!
Matt & Mike Blank
MBC Building & Remodeling, LLC
[717] 371.5136
Tuesday, April 24, 2012
Choosing a Top Deadbolt Lock for your Home
(This is a guest post from Madison Parker.)
One way to keep your home safe from would-be intruders is to install effective dead bolts on your doors. However, it’s important to look at what type of dead bolt to buy and what makes certain dead bolts even more effective - and discouraging to burglars - than others.
In general terms, as part of any basic security plan, homeowners should install what is known as Grade 1 or ANSI-designated deadbolt locks on every exterior door, including those between garages and home interiors. Burglars would of course prefer that you not use a deadbolt at all, and instead install an easy to pick spring lock. In fact, they’ll often avoid buildings with strong dead bolts in search of an easier target.
Since most area building codes do not require dead bolt type locks at all, the task of selecting an appropriate lock falls on the homeowner. Start your selection process by looking at a lock that’s a deterrent to burglars: one that can’t be picked, pried, hammered or drilled out easily. That means a lock that has an ANSI Grade 1 specification, which means the dead bolt has been tested to show that it can withstand up to ten hammer blows, and can effectively open and close two hundred and fifty thousand times, and project itself one inch into the door frame. Grade two dead bolts are also considered recommended for home use, but the grade one specification means it’s the sturdiest by far.
You should also look at what is called the UL or underwriters laboratories listing standards. The sturdiest locks have a UL listing of four hundred and thirty seven, meaning the lock meets the highest standards for security locking. And, once you’ve found an ANSI Grade 1, UL 437 lock, you’ll need to decide if you want a single or double cylinder lock. A double cylinder requires a key to operate even from the inside, which can make usage a bit more complex for your family. A single cylinder is the type of dead bolt most of us use, and it requires a key to lock and unlock from the outside, but operates with a twist of the wrist from the inside.
If your exterior door has a window in it, you may want a double cylinder, as an intruder could potentially break a window, reach inside, and simply turn the single cylinder lock. However, if there are no windows on your door, the added complication of using a double cylinder lock is probably not worth it. They can also be dangerous if you’re trying to exit your home quickly in the event of a fire or another emergency. In general, a single cylinder lock is strong and safe if you have a solid door.
Select your dead bolt lock by choosing one that features steel bolts or steel inserts with a one inch throw or more. What is a one inch throw? It’s the one inch of bolt that extends past your door’s edge, making it more difficult for an intruder to pick your lock.
Other facets to look for: a striking plate that’s steel with screws at least three inches in length.
Select a leading brand such as Master Lock, Schlage, or Baldwin.
Some Examples:
When selecting an electronic model be sure to find one that prevents lock bumping which is one way dead bolts can be broken. The Sunnect AP501AB and the Schlage BE365VCAM619 Camelot Deadbolt Keypad are both excellent keyless dead bolt models.
Madison Parker is a security expert whose interests range from personal to home security systems. Get more tips and advice on her Home Security blog!
One way to keep your home safe from would-be intruders is to install effective dead bolts on your doors. However, it’s important to look at what type of dead bolt to buy and what makes certain dead bolts even more effective - and discouraging to burglars - than others.
In general terms, as part of any basic security plan, homeowners should install what is known as Grade 1 or ANSI-designated deadbolt locks on every exterior door, including those between garages and home interiors. Burglars would of course prefer that you not use a deadbolt at all, and instead install an easy to pick spring lock. In fact, they’ll often avoid buildings with strong dead bolts in search of an easier target.
Since most area building codes do not require dead bolt type locks at all, the task of selecting an appropriate lock falls on the homeowner. Start your selection process by looking at a lock that’s a deterrent to burglars: one that can’t be picked, pried, hammered or drilled out easily. That means a lock that has an ANSI Grade 1 specification, which means the dead bolt has been tested to show that it can withstand up to ten hammer blows, and can effectively open and close two hundred and fifty thousand times, and project itself one inch into the door frame. Grade two dead bolts are also considered recommended for home use, but the grade one specification means it’s the sturdiest by far.
You should also look at what is called the UL or underwriters laboratories listing standards. The sturdiest locks have a UL listing of four hundred and thirty seven, meaning the lock meets the highest standards for security locking. And, once you’ve found an ANSI Grade 1, UL 437 lock, you’ll need to decide if you want a single or double cylinder lock. A double cylinder requires a key to operate even from the inside, which can make usage a bit more complex for your family. A single cylinder is the type of dead bolt most of us use, and it requires a key to lock and unlock from the outside, but operates with a twist of the wrist from the inside.
If your exterior door has a window in it, you may want a double cylinder, as an intruder could potentially break a window, reach inside, and simply turn the single cylinder lock. However, if there are no windows on your door, the added complication of using a double cylinder lock is probably not worth it. They can also be dangerous if you’re trying to exit your home quickly in the event of a fire or another emergency. In general, a single cylinder lock is strong and safe if you have a solid door.
Select your dead bolt lock by choosing one that features steel bolts or steel inserts with a one inch throw or more. What is a one inch throw? It’s the one inch of bolt that extends past your door’s edge, making it more difficult for an intruder to pick your lock.
Other facets to look for: a striking plate that’s steel with screws at least three inches in length.
Select a leading brand such as Master Lock, Schlage, or Baldwin.
Some Examples:
- Schlage B60 609 Grade 1 Single Cylinder Deadbolt or the Kwikset 99800-092 Signatures 980 Grade 1 Security Single Cylinder SmartKey with a customized security system that allows easy re-keying if a key is lost.
- Medeco Maxum 11WC60L, one of the toughest out there.
When selecting an electronic model be sure to find one that prevents lock bumping which is one way dead bolts can be broken. The Sunnect AP501AB and the Schlage BE365VCAM619 Camelot Deadbolt Keypad are both excellent keyless dead bolt models.
Madison Parker is a security expert whose interests range from personal to home security systems. Get more tips and advice on her Home Security blog!
Wednesday, April 11, 2012
How Much Water Could Your Home Be Wasting? (from elocal.com)
Thank you to elocal.com for this guest post and infographic!!
From cooking to cleaning and manufacturing to shipping, humans consume excessive amounts of the earth’s most precious resource. Since only 1% of the earth’s water is available for human consumption, we need to reduce the amount of water we use.
Excessive water consumption occurs in our homes everyday. Curious to know how much water your own home is wasting? With the help of our Blog-Off experts, we’ve compiled information on US residential water consumption.
(click here to enlarge photo)
From cooking to cleaning and manufacturing to shipping, humans consume excessive amounts of the earth’s most precious resource. Since only 1% of the earth’s water is available for human consumption, we need to reduce the amount of water we use.
Excessive water consumption occurs in our homes everyday. Curious to know how much water your own home is wasting? With the help of our Blog-Off experts, we’ve compiled information on US residential water consumption.
(click here to enlarge photo)
Wednesday, February 8, 2012
Deck Cleaning Tips
Lancaster County, PA homeowners are often curious the best way to keep their new deck or porch looking beautiful for the long term. Different types of decking material need different types of techniques to be cleaned properly. First things first, inspect your deck before cleaning it. If something looks amiss structurally, call a contractor to take a look!
Here are some tips for cleaning a Wood, Composite or Cedar/Redwood deck:
Using that Power Sprayer - A power sprayer is a huge time saver when cleaning a deck; but before you hook it up and dial in a laser beam of water consider that you may do more harm than good. Using a narrow, high-pressure stream of water can wash off paint, and even gouge the wood so badly you couldn’t even hide it with a new coat of paint. It can also ruin the surface integrity of composite materials. By breaking the surface you are inviting mildew and grime.
It is best to hold the nozzle about 2 feet above the deck surface while swinging the nozzle back and forth like a pendulum. You may not be able to remove every stain with the power sprayer – and that is ok! Leave them to be finished later with a deck cleansing solution and a small brush.
Cleaning a Wood Deck - Make sure you first get all the needles or other debris out from between the deck planks. You don‘t want to be sealing in those needles and the moisture that can come along with them. You can usually just use a hose or power washer to clean out hard to reach places. For what the water doesn’t get, a putty knife or other thin blade is usually your best bet.
To clean the wood there are multiple deck cleaners out there. Always read carefully to make sure you have the correct cleaner. Don’t forget to cover all that stuff you have under the deck, like plants and your lawn furniture.
Cleaning a Composite Deck - Despite their well-deserved reputation for being low-maintenance, composite decks are not completely maintenance free. The good news is dirt and debris usually wash away easily with a garden hose.
However, a deck cleaner will probably be needed to get rid of stains and heavy mildew. If you’re not sure where to start, you can contact the manufacturer of the decking material. Usually their websites provide cleaning tips and advise you as to which cleaners are best. When using a deck cleaner, the usual procedure is to spray it on (you can use a cheap hand pumped sprayer), let it sit for about 20 minutes, then wash it off with a garden hose.
It is not recommended to sand composite decks to remove a tough spot or stain.
Cleaning a Cedar Or Redwood Deck - Cleaning a cedar or redwood deck is similar to cleaning a composite deck in many respects. Cedar and redwood, and most treated woods, are decay resistant, and also have less of a tendency to harbor mildew, although in areas receiving heavy moisture, mildew can still be a problem.
Cedar is a soft wood and could too easily be damaged if you attempt to power wash it. There are specific cleaning solutions in stores for cedar decks. Consider applying a brightener after everything has dried to help restore the natural wood look.
If you have questions or are looking for a beautiful Lancaster, PA deck of your own - please give us a call!
Here are some tips for cleaning a Wood, Composite or Cedar/Redwood deck:
Using that Power Sprayer - A power sprayer is a huge time saver when cleaning a deck; but before you hook it up and dial in a laser beam of water consider that you may do more harm than good. Using a narrow, high-pressure stream of water can wash off paint, and even gouge the wood so badly you couldn’t even hide it with a new coat of paint. It can also ruin the surface integrity of composite materials. By breaking the surface you are inviting mildew and grime.
It is best to hold the nozzle about 2 feet above the deck surface while swinging the nozzle back and forth like a pendulum. You may not be able to remove every stain with the power sprayer – and that is ok! Leave them to be finished later with a deck cleansing solution and a small brush.
Cleaning a Wood Deck - Make sure you first get all the needles or other debris out from between the deck planks. You don‘t want to be sealing in those needles and the moisture that can come along with them. You can usually just use a hose or power washer to clean out hard to reach places. For what the water doesn’t get, a putty knife or other thin blade is usually your best bet.
To clean the wood there are multiple deck cleaners out there. Always read carefully to make sure you have the correct cleaner. Don’t forget to cover all that stuff you have under the deck, like plants and your lawn furniture.
Cleaning a Composite Deck - Despite their well-deserved reputation for being low-maintenance, composite decks are not completely maintenance free. The good news is dirt and debris usually wash away easily with a garden hose.
However, a deck cleaner will probably be needed to get rid of stains and heavy mildew. If you’re not sure where to start, you can contact the manufacturer of the decking material. Usually their websites provide cleaning tips and advise you as to which cleaners are best. When using a deck cleaner, the usual procedure is to spray it on (you can use a cheap hand pumped sprayer), let it sit for about 20 minutes, then wash it off with a garden hose.
It is not recommended to sand composite decks to remove a tough spot or stain.
Cleaning a Cedar Or Redwood Deck - Cleaning a cedar or redwood deck is similar to cleaning a composite deck in many respects. Cedar and redwood, and most treated woods, are decay resistant, and also have less of a tendency to harbor mildew, although in areas receiving heavy moisture, mildew can still be a problem.
Cedar is a soft wood and could too easily be damaged if you attempt to power wash it. There are specific cleaning solutions in stores for cedar decks. Consider applying a brightener after everything has dried to help restore the natural wood look.
If you have questions or are looking for a beautiful Lancaster, PA deck of your own - please give us a call!
Monday, January 30, 2012
FHA 203k Loan Info
Many Lancaster County, PA home buyers find themselves torn when they are about to decide on which house to buy. We often here from potential clients "I LOVE the location, but we NEED to do something about that bathroom"; or "If it only had a finished basement..."; or "a home addition would make this our DREAM home".
The Federal Housing Administration (FHA) offers a loan specifially for situations like the ones mentioned above - the 203k Rehab Loan. Here is some important answers and general info from the Housing and Urban Development's website regarding eligibility, how to apply and all things 203k.
HUD's 203(k) program can help you with this quagmire and allow you to purchase or refinance a property plus include in the loan the cost of making the repairs and improvements. The FHA insured 203(k) loan is provided through approved mortgage lenders nationwide. It is available to persons wanting to occupy the home.
The downpayment requirement for an owner-occupant (or a nonprofit organization or government agency) is approximately 3.5% of the acquisition and repair costs of the property.
For a list of lenders who are offering the 203(k) Rehabilitation Program, please see the 203(k) Lenders List. The interest rate and discount points on the loan are negotiable between the borrower and the lender.
There is a minimum $5,000 requirement for the eligible improvements on the existing structure on the property. Minor or cosmetic repairs by themselves are unacceptable; however, they may be added to the minimum requirement. Under the Streamlined 203(k) program, a minimum repair/improvement cost requirement is not applicable.
What happens if the cost of the rehabilitation increases during the rehabilitation period?
Can the 203(k) mortgage amount be increased to cover the additional expenses? No. This emphasizes the importance of carefully selecting a contractor who will accurately estimate the cost of the improvements and satisfactorily complete the rehabilitation at or below the estimate.
Is there a time period on the rehabilitation construction period?
Yes, the Rehabilitation Loan Agreement contains three provisions concerning the timeliness of the work. The work must begin within 30 days of execution of the Agreement. The work must not cease prior to completion for more than 30 consecutive days. The work is to be completed within the time period shown in the Agreement (not to exceed six months); the lender should not allow a time period longer than that required to complete the work.
Does HUD always require a contingency reserve to cover unexpected cost increases?
Typically, yes. On properties older than 30 years and over $7,500 in rehabilitation costs, the cost estimate must include a contingency reserve. The reserve must be a minimum of ten (10) percent of the cost of rehabilitation; however, the contingency reserve may not exceed twenty (20) percent where major remodeling is contemplated. If utilities were not turned on for inspection, a minimum fifteen (15) percent is required.
Yes, under the Standard (k) program, however, a new addition must be attached to the existing dwelling, and must comply with HUD's Minimum Property Standards in 24 CFR 200.926d and all local codes and ordinances.
Can a dwelling be converted to provide access for a disabled person?
Yes. A dwelling can be remodeled to improve the kitchen and bath to accommodate a wheelchair access. Wider doors and handicap ramps can also be included in the cost of rehabilitation.
A. Homebuyer Locates the Property.
B. Preliminary Feasibility Analysis. After the property is located, the homebuyer and their real estate professional should make a marketability analysis prior to signing the sales contract. The following should be determined:
1) The extent of the rehabilitation work required;
2) Rough cost estimate of the work; and
3) The expected market value of the property after completion of the work. Note: The borrower does not want to spend money for appraisals and repair specifications (plans), then discover that the value of the property will be less than the purchase price (or existing indebtedness), plus the cost of improvements.
C. Sales Contract is Executed. A provision should be included in the sales contract that the buyer has applied for Section 203(k) financing, and that the contract is contingent upon loan approval and buyer's acceptance of additional required improvements as determined by HUD or the lender.
D. Homebuyer Selects Mortgage Lender. Call HUD Field Office for a list of lenders.
E. Consultant Prepares Work Write-up and Cost Estimate.
F. Lender Requests HUD Case Number. Upon acceptance of the architectural exhibits, the lender requests the assignment of a HUD case number, the plan reviewer, appraiser, and the inspector.
G. Fee Consultant Visits Property. The homebuyer and contractor (where applicable) meet with the fee consultant to ensure that the architectural exhibits are acceptable and that all program requirements have been properly shown on the exhibits.
H. Appraiser Performs the Appraisal.
I. Lender Reviews the Application The appraisal is reviewed to determine the maximum insurable mortgage amount for the property
J. Issuance of Conditional Commitment/Statement of Appraised Value. This is issued by the lender and establishes the maximum insurable mortgage amount for the property.
K. Lender Prepares Firm Commitment Application. The borrower provides information for the lender to request a credit report, verifications of employment and deposits, and any other source documents needed to establish the ability of the borrower to repay the mortgage.
L. Lender Issues Firm Commitment. If the application is found acceptable, the firm commitment is issued to the borrower. It states the maximum mortgage amount that HUD will insure for the borrower and the property.
M. Mortgage Loan Closing. After issuance of the firm commitment, the lender prepares for the closing of the mortgage. This includes the preparation of the Rehabilitation Loan Agreement. The Agreement is executed by the borrower and the lender in order to establish the conditions under which the lender will release funds from the Rehabilitation Escrow Account. Following closing, the borrower is required to begin making mortgage payments on the entire principal amount for the mortgage, including the amount in the Rehabilitation Escrow Account that has not yet been disbursed.
N. Mortgage Insurance Endorsement. Following loan closing, the lender submits copies of the mortgage documents to the HUD office for mortgage insurance endorsement. HUD reviews the submission and, if found acceptable, issues a Mortgage Insurance Certificate to the lender.
O. Rehabilitation Construction Begins. At loan closing, the mortgage proceeds will be disbursed to pay off the seller of the existing property and the Rehabilitation Escrow Account will be established. Construction may begin. The homeowner has up to six (6) months to complete the work depending on the extent of work to be completed. (Lenders may require less than six months.)
P. Releases from Rehabilitation Escrow Account. As construction progresses, funds are released after the work is inspected by a HUD-approved inspector. A maximum of four draw inspections plus a final inspection are allowed. The inspector reviews the Draw Request (form HUD-9746-A) that is prepared by the borrower and contractor. If the cost of rehabilitation exceeds $10,000, additional draw inspections are authorized provided the lender and borrower agree in writing and the number of draw inspections is shown on form HUD-92700, 203(k) Maximum Mortgage Worksheet.
Q. Completion of Work/Final Inspection. When all work is complete according to the approved architectural exhibits and change orders, the borrower provides a letter indicating that all work is satisfactorily complete and ready for final inspection. If the HUD-approved inspector agrees, the final draw may be released, minus the required 10 percent holdback. If there is unused contingency funds or mortgage payment reserves in the Account, the lender must apply the funds to prepay the mortgage principal.
Visit the HUD 203k FAQ page for more questions and answers.
If you're looking for your own Lancaster County, PA contractor, look no further than MBC Building & Remodeling, LLC! Please, please, please contact us with any questions you have regarding home renovations, rehabs or 203k loans.
The Federal Housing Administration (FHA) offers a loan specifially for situations like the ones mentioned above - the 203k Rehab Loan. Here is some important answers and general info from the Housing and Urban Development's website regarding eligibility, how to apply and all things 203k.
Program Overview
The purchase of a house that needs repair is often a catch-22 situation, because the bank won't lend the money to buy the house until the repairs are complete, and the repairs can't be done until the house has been purchased.HUD's 203(k) program can help you with this quagmire and allow you to purchase or refinance a property plus include in the loan the cost of making the repairs and improvements. The FHA insured 203(k) loan is provided through approved mortgage lenders nationwide. It is available to persons wanting to occupy the home.
The downpayment requirement for an owner-occupant (or a nonprofit organization or government agency) is approximately 3.5% of the acquisition and repair costs of the property.
For a list of lenders who are offering the 203(k) Rehabilitation Program, please see the 203(k) Lenders List. The interest rate and discount points on the loan are negotiable between the borrower and the lender.
Program Questions
What is the minimum amount of rehabilitation required for a non-streamlined Section 203(k) mortgage?There is a minimum $5,000 requirement for the eligible improvements on the existing structure on the property. Minor or cosmetic repairs by themselves are unacceptable; however, they may be added to the minimum requirement. Under the Streamlined 203(k) program, a minimum repair/improvement cost requirement is not applicable.
What happens if the cost of the rehabilitation increases during the rehabilitation period?
Can the 203(k) mortgage amount be increased to cover the additional expenses? No. This emphasizes the importance of carefully selecting a contractor who will accurately estimate the cost of the improvements and satisfactorily complete the rehabilitation at or below the estimate.
Is there a time period on the rehabilitation construction period?
Yes, the Rehabilitation Loan Agreement contains three provisions concerning the timeliness of the work. The work must begin within 30 days of execution of the Agreement. The work must not cease prior to completion for more than 30 consecutive days. The work is to be completed within the time period shown in the Agreement (not to exceed six months); the lender should not allow a time period longer than that required to complete the work.
Does HUD always require a contingency reserve to cover unexpected cost increases?
Typically, yes. On properties older than 30 years and over $7,500 in rehabilitation costs, the cost estimate must include a contingency reserve. The reserve must be a minimum of ten (10) percent of the cost of rehabilitation; however, the contingency reserve may not exceed twenty (20) percent where major remodeling is contemplated. If utilities were not turned on for inspection, a minimum fifteen (15) percent is required.
Eligible Improvements
Can a detached garage or another dwelling be placed on the mortgaged property?Yes, under the Standard (k) program, however, a new addition must be attached to the existing dwelling, and must comply with HUD's Minimum Property Standards in 24 CFR 200.926d and all local codes and ordinances.
Can a dwelling be converted to provide access for a disabled person?
Yes. A dwelling can be remodeled to improve the kitchen and bath to accommodate a wheelchair access. Wider doors and handicap ramps can also be included in the cost of rehabilitation.
Application Process
This describes a typical step-by-step application/mortgage origination process for a transaction involving the purchase and rehabilitation of a property. It explains the role of HUD, the mortgage lender, the contractor, the borrower, consultant, the plan reviewer, appraiser and the inspector.A. Homebuyer Locates the Property.
B. Preliminary Feasibility Analysis. After the property is located, the homebuyer and their real estate professional should make a marketability analysis prior to signing the sales contract. The following should be determined:
1) The extent of the rehabilitation work required;
2) Rough cost estimate of the work; and
3) The expected market value of the property after completion of the work. Note: The borrower does not want to spend money for appraisals and repair specifications (plans), then discover that the value of the property will be less than the purchase price (or existing indebtedness), plus the cost of improvements.
C. Sales Contract is Executed. A provision should be included in the sales contract that the buyer has applied for Section 203(k) financing, and that the contract is contingent upon loan approval and buyer's acceptance of additional required improvements as determined by HUD or the lender.
D. Homebuyer Selects Mortgage Lender. Call HUD Field Office for a list of lenders.
E. Consultant Prepares Work Write-up and Cost Estimate.
F. Lender Requests HUD Case Number. Upon acceptance of the architectural exhibits, the lender requests the assignment of a HUD case number, the plan reviewer, appraiser, and the inspector.
G. Fee Consultant Visits Property. The homebuyer and contractor (where applicable) meet with the fee consultant to ensure that the architectural exhibits are acceptable and that all program requirements have been properly shown on the exhibits.
H. Appraiser Performs the Appraisal.
I. Lender Reviews the Application The appraisal is reviewed to determine the maximum insurable mortgage amount for the property
J. Issuance of Conditional Commitment/Statement of Appraised Value. This is issued by the lender and establishes the maximum insurable mortgage amount for the property.
K. Lender Prepares Firm Commitment Application. The borrower provides information for the lender to request a credit report, verifications of employment and deposits, and any other source documents needed to establish the ability of the borrower to repay the mortgage.
L. Lender Issues Firm Commitment. If the application is found acceptable, the firm commitment is issued to the borrower. It states the maximum mortgage amount that HUD will insure for the borrower and the property.
M. Mortgage Loan Closing. After issuance of the firm commitment, the lender prepares for the closing of the mortgage. This includes the preparation of the Rehabilitation Loan Agreement. The Agreement is executed by the borrower and the lender in order to establish the conditions under which the lender will release funds from the Rehabilitation Escrow Account. Following closing, the borrower is required to begin making mortgage payments on the entire principal amount for the mortgage, including the amount in the Rehabilitation Escrow Account that has not yet been disbursed.
N. Mortgage Insurance Endorsement. Following loan closing, the lender submits copies of the mortgage documents to the HUD office for mortgage insurance endorsement. HUD reviews the submission and, if found acceptable, issues a Mortgage Insurance Certificate to the lender.
O. Rehabilitation Construction Begins. At loan closing, the mortgage proceeds will be disbursed to pay off the seller of the existing property and the Rehabilitation Escrow Account will be established. Construction may begin. The homeowner has up to six (6) months to complete the work depending on the extent of work to be completed. (Lenders may require less than six months.)
P. Releases from Rehabilitation Escrow Account. As construction progresses, funds are released after the work is inspected by a HUD-approved inspector. A maximum of four draw inspections plus a final inspection are allowed. The inspector reviews the Draw Request (form HUD-9746-A) that is prepared by the borrower and contractor. If the cost of rehabilitation exceeds $10,000, additional draw inspections are authorized provided the lender and borrower agree in writing and the number of draw inspections is shown on form HUD-92700, 203(k) Maximum Mortgage Worksheet.
Q. Completion of Work/Final Inspection. When all work is complete according to the approved architectural exhibits and change orders, the borrower provides a letter indicating that all work is satisfactorily complete and ready for final inspection. If the HUD-approved inspector agrees, the final draw may be released, minus the required 10 percent holdback. If there is unused contingency funds or mortgage payment reserves in the Account, the lender must apply the funds to prepay the mortgage principal.
Visit the HUD 203k FAQ page for more questions and answers.
If you're looking for your own Lancaster County, PA contractor, look no further than MBC Building & Remodeling, LLC! Please, please, please contact us with any questions you have regarding home renovations, rehabs or 203k loans.
Friday, January 6, 2012
What is Full-Service?
We are often asked what we mean when we say we are a Full-Service remodeling contractor here in Lancaster County, PA. Full-service means understanding that every project is unique. And it means working with each and every customer in whatever capacity they need us. Don't like drywall (who does?) but love to paint? No problem. We can leave finished drywall in a home addition or basement remodel and you can paint to your heart's delight. Find an AMAZING deal on flooring online? We can install products for you without ordering them. Or we can take care of everything if that's what you want.
Kind of reminds me of this song...
Is your Lancaster, PA home remodeling contractor Full-Service? Any way you want it, MBC Building & Remodeling, LLC will take care of it!
Thank you for reading!
Matt & Mike Blank
MBC Building & Remodeling, LLC
[717] 371.5136
Kind of reminds me of this song...
Is your Lancaster, PA home remodeling contractor Full-Service? Any way you want it, MBC Building & Remodeling, LLC will take care of it!
Thank you for reading!
Matt & Mike Blank
MBC Building & Remodeling, LLC
[717] 371.5136
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