Choosing a Top Deadbolt Lock for your Home

(This is a guest post from Madison Parker.)
One way to keep your home safe from would-be intruders is to install effective dead bolts on your doors. However, it’s important to look at what type of dead bolt to buy and what makes certain dead bolts even more effective - and discouraging to burglars - than others.

In general terms, as part of any basic security plan, homeowners should install what is known as Grade 1 or ANSI-designated deadbolt locks on every exterior door, including those between garages and home interiors. Burglars would of course prefer that you not use a deadbolt at all, and instead install an easy to pick spring lock. In fact, they’ll often avoid buildings with strong dead bolts in search of an easier target.

Since most area building codes do not require dead bolt type locks at all, the task of selecting an appropriate lock falls on the homeowner.  Start your selection process by looking at a lock that’s a deterrent to burglars: one that can’t be picked, pried, hammered or drilled out easily. That means a lock that has an ANSI Grade 1 specification, which means the dead bolt has been tested to show that it can withstand up to ten hammer blows, and can effectively open and close two hundred and fifty thousand times, and project itself one inch into the door frame. Grade two dead bolts are also considered recommended for home use, but the grade one specification means it’s the sturdiest by far.

You should also look at what is called the UL or underwriters laboratories listing standards. The sturdiest locks have a UL listing of four hundred and thirty seven, meaning the lock meets the highest standards for security locking. And, once you’ve found an ANSI Grade 1, UL 437 lock, you’ll need to decide if you want a single or double cylinder lock. A double cylinder requires a key to operate even from the inside, which can make usage a bit more complex for your family. A single cylinder is the type of dead bolt most of us use, and it requires a key to lock and unlock from the outside, but operates with a twist of the wrist from the inside.

If your exterior door has a window in it, you may want a double cylinder, as an intruder could potentially break a window, reach inside, and simply turn the single cylinder lock. However, if there are no windows on your door, the added complication of using a double cylinder lock is probably not worth it. They can also be dangerous if you’re trying to exit your home quickly in the event of a fire or another emergency. In general, a single cylinder lock is strong and safe if you have a solid door.

Select your dead bolt lock by choosing one that features steel bolts or steel inserts with a one inch throw or more. What is a one inch throw? It’s the one inch of bolt that extends past your door’s edge, making it more difficult for an intruder to pick your lock.

Other facets to look for: a striking plate that’s steel with screws at least three inches in length.
Select a leading brand such as Master Lock, Schlage, or Baldwin.

Some Examples:

• Schlage B60 609 Grade 1 Single Cylinder Deadbolt or the Kwikset 99800-092 Signatures 980 Grade 1 Security Single Cylinder SmartKey with a customized security system that allows easy re-keying if a key is lost.
• Medeco Maxum 11WC60L, one of the toughest out there.

Electronic keyless deadbolts
When selecting an electronic model be sure to find one that prevents lock bumping which is one way dead bolts can be broken. The Sunnect AP501AB and the Schlage BE365VCAM619 Camelot Deadbolt Keypad are both excellent keyless dead bolt models.

Madison Parker is a security expert whose interests range from personal to home security systems. Get more tips and advice on her Home Security blog!

How Much Water Could Your Home Be Wasting? (from elocal.com)

Thank you to elocal.com for this guest post and infographic!!

From cooking to cleaning and manufacturing to shipping, humans consume excessive amounts of the earth’s most precious resource. Since only 1% of the earth’s water is available for human consumption, we need to reduce the amount of water we use.

Excessive water consumption occurs in our homes everyday. Curious to know how much water your own home is wasting? With the help of our Blog-Off experts, we’ve compiled information on US residential water consumption.

(click here to enlarge photo)


 

Deck Cleaning Tips

Lancaster County, PA homeowners are often curious the best way to keep their new deck or porch looking beautiful for the long term. Different types of decking material need different types of techniques to be cleaned properly. First things first, inspect your deck before cleaning it. If something looks amiss structurally, call a contractor to take a look!

Here are some tips for cleaning a Wood, Composite or Cedar/Redwood deck:

Using that Power Sprayer - A power sprayer is a huge time saver when cleaning a deck; but before you hook it up and dial in a laser beam of water consider that you may do more harm than good. Using a narrow, high-pressure stream of water can wash off paint, and even gouge the wood so badly you couldn’t even hide it with a new coat of paint. It can also ruin the surface integrity of composite materials. By breaking the surface you are inviting mildew and grime.

It is best to hold the nozzle about 2 feet above the deck surface while swinging the nozzle back and forth like a pendulum. You may not be able to remove every stain with the power sprayer – and that is ok! Leave them to be finished later with a deck cleansing solution and a small brush.



Cleaning a Wood Deck - Make sure you first get all the needles or other debris out from between the deck planks. You don‘t want to be sealing in those needles and the moisture that can come along with them. You can usually just use a hose or power washer to clean out hard to reach places. For what the water doesn’t get, a putty knife or other thin blade is usually your best bet.

To clean the wood there are multiple deck cleaners out there. Always read carefully to make sure you have the correct cleaner. Don’t forget to cover all that stuff you have under the deck, like plants and your lawn furniture.

Cleaning a Composite Deck - Despite their well-deserved reputation for being low-maintenance, composite decks are not completely maintenance free. The good news is dirt and debris usually wash away easily with a garden hose.



However, a deck cleaner will probably be needed to get rid of stains and heavy mildew. If you’re not sure where to start, you can contact the manufacturer of the decking material. Usually their websites provide cleaning tips and advise you as to which cleaners are best. When using a deck cleaner, the usual procedure is to spray it on (you can use a cheap hand pumped sprayer), let it sit for about 20 minutes, then wash it off with a garden hose.

It is not recommended to sand composite decks to remove a tough spot or stain.

Cleaning a Cedar Or Redwood Deck - Cleaning a cedar or redwood deck is similar to cleaning a composite deck in many respects. Cedar and redwood, and most treated woods, are decay resistant, and also have less of a tendency to harbor mildew, although in areas receiving heavy moisture, mildew can still be a problem.

Cedar is a soft wood and could too easily be damaged if you attempt to power wash it. There are specific cleaning solutions in stores for cedar decks. Consider applying a brightener after everything has dried to help restore the natural wood look.

If you have questions or are looking for a beautiful Lancaster, PA deck of your own - please give us a call!

FHA 203k Loan Info

Many Lancaster County, PA home buyers find themselves torn when they are about to decide on which house to buy. We often here from potential clients "I LOVE the location, but we NEED to do something about that bathroom"; or "If it only had a finished basement..."; or "a home addition would make this our DREAM home".



The Federal Housing Administration (FHA) offers a loan specifially for situations like the ones mentioned above - the 203k Rehab Loan. Here is some important answers and general info from the Housing and Urban Development's website regarding eligibility, how to apply and all things 203k.

Program Overview

The purchase of a house that needs repair is often a catch-22 situation, because the bank won't lend the money to buy the house until the repairs are complete, and the repairs can't be done until the house has been purchased.

HUD's 203(k) program can help you with this quagmire and allow you to purchase or refinance a property plus include in the loan the cost of making the repairs and improvements. The FHA insured 203(k) loan is provided through approved mortgage lenders nationwide. It is available to persons wanting to occupy the home.

The downpayment requirement for an owner-occupant (or a nonprofit organization or government agency) is approximately 3.5% of the acquisition and repair costs of the property.

For a list of lenders who are offering the 203(k) Rehabilitation Program, please see the 203(k) Lenders List. The interest rate and discount points on the loan are negotiable between the borrower and the lender.

Program Questions

What is the minimum amount of rehabilitation required for a non-streamlined Section 203(k) mortgage?

There is a minimum $5,000 requirement for the eligible improvements on the existing structure on the property. Minor or cosmetic repairs by themselves are unacceptable; however, they may be added to the minimum requirement. Under the Streamlined 203(k) program, a minimum repair/improvement cost requirement is not applicable.

What happens if the cost of the rehabilitation increases during the rehabilitation period?

Can the 203(k) mortgage amount be increased to cover the additional expenses? No. This emphasizes the importance of carefully selecting a contractor who will accurately estimate the cost of the improvements and satisfactorily complete the rehabilitation at or below the estimate.

Is there a time period on the rehabilitation construction period?

Yes, the Rehabilitation Loan Agreement contains three provisions concerning the timeliness of the work. The work must begin within 30 days of execution of the Agreement. The work must not cease prior to completion for more than 30 consecutive days. The work is to be completed within the time period shown in the Agreement (not to exceed six months); the lender should not allow a time period longer than that required to complete the work.

Does HUD always require a contingency reserve to cover unexpected cost increases?

Typically, yes. On properties older than 30 years and over $7,500 in rehabilitation costs, the cost estimate must include a contingency reserve. The reserve must be a minimum of ten (10) percent of the cost of rehabilitation; however, the contingency reserve may not exceed twenty (20) percent where major remodeling is contemplated. If utilities were not turned on for inspection, a minimum fifteen (15) percent is required.

Eligible Improvements

Can a detached garage or another dwelling be placed on the mortgaged property?

Yes, under the Standard (k) program, however, a new addition must be attached to the existing dwelling, and must comply with HUD's Minimum Property Standards in 24 CFR 200.926d and all local codes and ordinances.

Can a dwelling be converted to provide access for a disabled person?

Yes. A dwelling can be remodeled to improve the kitchen and bath to accommodate a wheelchair access. Wider doors and handicap ramps can also be included in the cost of rehabilitation.

Application Process

This describes a typical step-by-step application/mortgage origination process for a transaction involving the purchase and rehabilitation of a property. It explains the role of HUD, the mortgage lender, the contractor, the borrower, consultant, the plan reviewer, appraiser and the inspector.

A. Homebuyer Locates the Property.

B. Preliminary Feasibility Analysis. After the property is located, the homebuyer and their real estate professional should make a marketability analysis prior to signing the sales contract. The following should be determined:

1) The extent of the rehabilitation work required;

2) Rough cost estimate of the work; and

3) The expected market value of the property after completion of the work. Note: The borrower does not want to spend money for appraisals and repair specifications (plans), then discover that the value of the property will be less than the purchase price (or existing indebtedness), plus the cost of improvements.

C. Sales Contract is Executed. A provision should be included in the sales contract that the buyer has applied for Section 203(k) financing, and that the contract is contingent upon loan approval and buyer's acceptance of additional required improvements as determined by HUD or the lender.

D. Homebuyer Selects Mortgage Lender. Call HUD Field Office for a list of lenders.

E. Consultant Prepares Work Write-up and Cost Estimate.

F. Lender Requests HUD Case Number. Upon acceptance of the architectural exhibits, the lender requests the assignment of a HUD case number, the plan reviewer, appraiser, and the inspector.

G. Fee Consultant Visits Property. The homebuyer and contractor (where applicable) meet with the fee consultant to ensure that the architectural exhibits are acceptable and that all program requirements have been properly shown on the exhibits.

H. Appraiser Performs the Appraisal.

I. Lender Reviews the Application The appraisal is reviewed to determine the maximum insurable mortgage amount for the property

J. Issuance of Conditional Commitment/Statement of Appraised Value. This is issued by the lender and establishes the maximum insurable mortgage amount for the property.

K. Lender Prepares Firm Commitment Application. The borrower provides information for the lender to request a credit report, verifications of employment and deposits, and any other source documents needed to establish the ability of the borrower to repay the mortgage.

L. Lender Issues Firm Commitment. If the application is found acceptable, the firm commitment is issued to the borrower. It states the maximum mortgage amount that HUD will insure for the borrower and the property.

M. Mortgage Loan Closing. After issuance of the firm commitment, the lender prepares for the closing of the mortgage. This includes the preparation of the Rehabilitation Loan Agreement. The Agreement is executed by the borrower and the lender in order to establish the conditions under which the lender will release funds from the Rehabilitation Escrow Account. Following closing, the borrower is required to begin making mortgage payments on the entire principal amount for the mortgage, including the amount in the Rehabilitation Escrow Account that has not yet been disbursed.

N. Mortgage Insurance Endorsement. Following loan closing, the lender submits copies of the mortgage documents to the HUD office for mortgage insurance endorsement. HUD reviews the submission and, if found acceptable, issues a Mortgage Insurance Certificate to the lender.

O. Rehabilitation Construction Begins. At loan closing, the mortgage proceeds will be disbursed to pay off the seller of the existing property and the Rehabilitation Escrow Account will be established. Construction may begin. The homeowner has up to six (6) months to complete the work depending on the extent of work to be completed. (Lenders may require less than six months.)

P. Releases from Rehabilitation Escrow Account. As construction progresses, funds are released after the work is inspected by a HUD-approved inspector. A maximum of four draw inspections plus a final inspection are allowed. The inspector reviews the Draw Request (form HUD-9746-A) that is prepared by the borrower and contractor. If the cost of rehabilitation exceeds $10,000, additional draw inspections are authorized provided the lender and borrower agree in writing and the number of draw inspections is shown on form HUD-92700, 203(k) Maximum Mortgage Worksheet.

Q. Completion of Work/Final Inspection. When all work is complete according to the approved architectural exhibits and change orders, the borrower provides a letter indicating that all work is satisfactorily complete and ready for final inspection. If the HUD-approved inspector agrees, the final draw may be released, minus the required 10 percent holdback. If there is unused contingency funds or mortgage payment reserves in the Account, the lender must apply the funds to prepay the mortgage principal.

Visit the HUD 203k FAQ page for more questions and answers.

If you're looking for your own Lancaster County, PA contractor, look no further than MBC Building & Remodeling, LLC! Please, please, please contact us with any questions you have regarding home renovations, rehabs or 203k loans.

What is Full-Service?

We are often asked what we mean when we say we are a Full-Service remodeling contractor here in Lancaster County, PA. Full-service means understanding that every project is unique. And it means working with each and every customer in whatever capacity they need us. Don't like drywall (who does?) but love to paint? No problem. We can leave finished drywall in a home addition or basement remodel and you can paint to your heart's delight. Find an AMAZING deal on flooring online? We can install products for you without ordering them. Or we can take care of everything if that's what you want.

Kind of reminds me of this song...


Is your Lancaster, PA home remodeling contractor Full-Service? Any way you want it, MBC Building & Remodeling, LLC will take care of it!

Thank you for reading!



Matt & Mike Blank
MBC Building & Remodeling, LLC
[717] 371.5136